Watering Heat Stressed Lawns

Lawn Alert

July 2018

Lot’s of folks have been asking if they should continue to water their brown lawns. This is what Uncle recommends.

If your lawn is looking great: You have been watering routinely, continue your normal watering cycles, and you get a gold star for staying ahead of the game. Don’t change a thing.

If your lawn is brown and toasty: You’ve been away on vacation or just couldn't find the time or money to keep ahead of the watering, it is okay to allow your lawn to go dormant in this heat. Dormancy is a good thing, that’s Mother Nature’s way of helping the grass plant to survive. An established yard can survive drought periods for a few weeks, but high heat and wind can really mess things up.

We would encourage you to water 1 to 2 inches every other week to keep the roots alive. We’re not trying to green it up, just helping the roots and crowns to survive the summer furnace blast. Water in the morning hours to help reduce evaporation. If you need to mow, mow high and try to keep foot traffic to a minimum.

Save yourself $500 water bills this month and next. You can use half of it for seed this fall and send the other half to the Royals relief fund.

Today is May Day. Is it too late to over seed my yard?

Today’s lawn problem needs attention today. Waiting for August merely is not acceptable. Killing dandelions and henbit today will leave bare areas for crabgrass to move in this summer and when the crabgrass dies this winter, the dandelions and henbit move back in for the spring. It’s a vicious cycle, and the only thing that will stop the cycle is to keep grass growing in those bare spots. No bare spots no weeds. 

Longer daylight hours, and gradually warming soil temperatures have started to green up area lawns and golf courses. Hazy brown turf is turning bright green as new grass shoots pop out of the ground in response to the first spring fertilizer treatment.

Thin areas and bare spots show up quickly as the rest of the lawn begins to turn green. Winter injury to newly seeded areas is apparent. Dead crabgrass and foxtail form brown patches and bare spots in the otherwise green turf. Heavily shaded areas look particularly forlorn and muddy.

Question of the week. Can I seed my lawn today? The answer is almost always, YES! Grass Pad customers have been successful in seeding twelve months of the year. Every year and every season brings a new challenge when it comes to overseeding, and if you have reasonable expectations when you seed your lawn in May, you can be successful.

Reasonable expectations. If the coming summer is as wet as the last three, then there is an excellent chance the majority of your spring seeding will survive the summer with routine watering. If the weather pattern changes and we get high heat, blowing wind and no rainfall for extended periods, even the most drought tolerant grass seed will have a tough time surviving without a mature root system.

The good news is that Mother Nature wants to give you some help in greening up your lawn and filling in those unsightly bare spots. Grass plants have a biological clock and will begin to sprout and fill as the weather warms. The bad news is that ordinary lawn weeds will also start as fast

Weed control problems can create an interruption in spring seeding. But patience and timing will help guaranteed success. If broadleaf weeds are a severe problem, treat before starting to seed. Liquid weed control products containing Trimec or Speedzone do an excellent job for spot treatment or granular Loveland Weed and Feed for large areas.

Wait five days after broadleaf weed treatments and then begin your seeding program. Although some seed may be lost by seeding so quickly, the higher risk is summer’s approaching hot weather.

Eliminate crabgrass when overseeding in early May by applying Tupersan, a seed safe pre-emergent, and Golf Course Starter the same day. Once the seed has germinated and has grown tall enough to have been mowed twice, apply Prevent for season-long crabgrass control.

How long do I wait to seed after applying Prevent? Overseeding is not an option after you have applied Prevent. However, you can be successful seeding small bare spot areas using Uncle's Seed Sandwich technique, using a layer of PrimeraFC as an insulator above the Prevent barrier.

First Week in March: What You Should Be Doing In Your Lawn

It's been a dry winter and lawns are toasty brown. Grass blades have been frozen by winter temperatures and burned by winter sun. These old dried blades do not recover. In time they will be replaced by fresh green growth sprouting from the crowns and root system of the existing grass plant.

Every Spring Mother Nature gives plant life a chance to start over. The winter season has been a long time out. It's the first weekend in March and now there is a chance to begin anew. Gardener’s and home owners can't make Spring come one day sooner, but they can be prepared for an early start.

Uncle's Early Spring tips: 

1. First, mow the lawn short: Lower your mower deck one or two notches. Being careful not to scalp your lawn. Pick up the grass clippings and remove any winter trash. This low mow will cut off the brown winter grass blades and open up the soil to the warm spring sunlight. 
2. Second, give the lawn a booster shot of spring fertilizer. Golf Course Starter or Loveland Renovator formula will start the rejuvenation process four weeks early and help lawns thicken and fill in ahead of summer weeds and hot weather. 
3. Third, over seed any bare spots larger than a salad plate with fresh clean lawn seed and top dress with PrimeraFC top dressing or sphagnum peat. Avoid seed blends that contain coarse bladed annual rye grass or ugly field fescue; and do not use top soil to top dress weed free Grass Pad grass seed. Top soil will contain coarse weed and sedge seed. 
4. Fourth, water when you are able. Winter has had below average moisture. Surface conditions are extremely dry for turf. Water deep once or twice per week till normal spring rains arrive.

See Related: Tips on Spring Over Seeding

Spring thawing and frost heaves open up cracks in the soil that let in air and moisture. These cracks make March an ideal time to apply seed, fertilizer, lawn calcium and lime. Shady areas have been hit hard this winter and are ideal for mixes like Macho Mix or Estate Mix, If you have a house or rental property that needs a make over in the front yard look for a sports field rye blend like Stadium Special. This is real first aid for distressed real estate or a play area where kids and dogs have torn up the play field. Both fescue and bluegrass lawns may be over seeded now. But don't fiddle; new grass plants need an early start to be ready for hot weather.

Uncle's Rant: My Irish Uncle taught me a thing or two about thrift. He said keep your money in the mattress and always buy grass seed by the pound. READ THE LABEL! some seed bags are now only half full with grass seed, the rest is magic dust from the Leprechauns and Fairies. Uncle says this is like pouring water in the whiskey jug and calling it “Jack Daniels.” Homeowners should read the analysis label and only pay for the real grass seed. Recommended coverage is often so much blarney. Mother Nature puts the magic in the grass seed, the inert matter is just expensive dust.

See Related: When to apply PREVENT for crabgrass.

Idiot Proof Tips to Keep Grass Growing Under Shade Trees

5 Idiot-Proof Tips to Keep Grass Growing Under Trees. 

1. Improve sunlight! Intensity and duration of quality light reaching the grass plant is important. The more time the grass plant has in full sunlight, the better it will perform. Pruning lower branches to raise the canopy will increase full sun exposure and allow more wind circulation helping to reduce humid conditions that can stimulate turf disease. Shaded areas with restricted air movement may require treatment with Fungus Fighters to maintain a healthy turf.

2. Traffic Management! Shade stressed grass plants are less tolerant of heavy wear. Traffic management may be required. Active dog runs along shaded fence areas may require physical barriers to alter their traffic patterns. A runway of mulch along the fence could be your best option for large active canines.

3. Use the Best Grass Seed! Uncle's Premium Shade grass seed is the ideal blend of elite grass seed varieties with lower water and nutrient requirements showing improved shade tolerance and increased disease resistance. Reseed shady areas three times a year (spring, summer, and fall) rotating youthful, vigorous, low light tolerant grass plants into the maturing turf stand.

4. Deep Water Shade Areas! In the spring, with frequent rains, the shade tree and grass are good neighbors, plenty of moisture for everyone. However, when spring rains stop and summer heat sets in, the trees get very unfriendly. A large shade tree can use hundreds of gallons of water a day leaving very little moisture for turf grass. Discourage turf disease in summer with heavy but infrequent waterings to reduce wet foliage. 

5. Release Compaction! Condition the soil under your shade trees. Increase the soils water holding capacity and improve drainage by core aerating and raking PrimeraFC field conditioner into the aeration holes. PrimeraFC is a natural porous ceramic granule having incredible air and water holding capacity. PrimeraFC helps to relieve compaction and improve drainage when incorporated into the soil

What about large tree roots?

Unchecked over the years, soil erosion, can expose shallow tree roots. Bare soil erodes quickly with no grass roots to hold soil in place. Top soil can be hauled in to cover exposed roots, but too much soils can be damaging for the tree. Gasses must pass from the air to the roots and from the roots back to the air. Too much, soil pack can create real problems for the tree so, be careful! Some surface roots can also be removed. Large surface roots are more for anchorage and with expert help, you may be able to remove a few. Always contact an arborist for advice on removing tree roots.

If all else fails, start a shade garden. Hosta, astilbe, hydrangea love the shade.

Related: Best Shade Tolerant Perennials

Fall Armyworm Invasion

The fall armyworm feed on a host of different crops, but they really have a preference for lush green, well-fertilized tall fescue and rye grasses. Armyworms feed on the bottom of a plant first and move up the stem, quickly stripping foliage from the leaves.

In a typical fall season, armyworms are not a big concern for our region, the last major infestation was in 2010. Unusual weather patterns may have played a factor. Cooler than normal summers or the brief heat wave may have confused the armyworm moth's biological GPS. The only thing we know for sure is, they are here now!

Armyworm moths lay egg masses reaching 1500 to 2000 individual eggs hatching in just a few days. The larval stage tends to last about 14 days in the heat of summer to almost a month in cooler weather. Ferociously feeding on the best looking fescue lawns. The young are a greenish caterpillars with a black head maturing to a dark brownish body with hair like spines. The face of the mature larva is marked with a white inverted "Y".

After larvae have fully grown, they bury themselves into the soil and form a pupae. The moths will emerge in about 10 to 14 days. Damage can come in waves with multiple generations, monitoring your lawn for the rest of the season is advisable. 

Signs you may have fall armyworm invasion:

• Brown patches resembling drought damage.
• Brown patches with all tender green leave removed, leaving only tough stems.
• Birds digging near those brown areas. 

Timing is crucial and early treatment is the most effective. Small fall armyworms are easier to control than the mature. Apply Critter Gitter granules, Cyonara, or Bifen I/T liquid control early or late in the day when armyworms are the most active. Fall armyworms will spend the hot part of the day deep in the soil. When using Critter Gitter granules use plenty of water to allow for good penetration.

Repair any damaged areas following Uncle's Steps to Fall Lawn Renovation and using extra grass seed in damaged areas. If used as directed, the controls for armyworms and fall renovation can be done the same day. Using Critter Gitter, Cyonara, or Bifen I/T will not affect seeding.

See Spot's Run

Yes! Grass can grow on a race track! Soil compaction makes it difficult for the grass to grow in the areas where Spot runs along your deck and fence. Compaction leaves little or no oxygen available to the roots. Reduce compaction in those areas by core aerating your lawn every fall. Pass over the lawn at least 2-3 times focusing on the heavy traffic areas.

PrimeraOne field conditioner should be applied after aerating the dog run and all compacted areas. Rake or sweep the chips into the core holes. The entire lawn will benefit as well, especially if you have poor drainage.

Overseeding those areas with high traffic tolerant sports turf perennial rye grass such as Stadium Special, frequently throughout the season, will give support to your existing lawn and blend well with bluegrass or fescue. Stay ahead of the game and overseed with Macho Mix fescue or Estate Mix bluegrass each contain some perennial sports turf rye for traffic tolerance and quick germination.

Renovator or Golf Course Starter should be applied every four weeks in spring & fall growing season. Water your lawn regularly during the dry summer months. Watering in the morning is recommended to avoid turf fungus. A deep watering applied infrequently is best. Average watering should be one inch per week. Hot summers with excessive heat, may require up to two inches per week.

Turf Type Tall Fescue vs. Kentucky Tall Fescue

What is a “Tall Fescue”? Tall fescue is a cool season grass widely used as pasture grass. One of the oldest varieties of tall fescue was found in 1931 on a farm in Kentucky where it had been grown for 50 years. Fast growing and drought tolerant Kentucky tall fescue performs well as a forage grass however; coarse blades and heavy clumping will result in a very poor quality turf lawn.

What is a “Turf-Type” tall fescue? In the 1970’s, tall fescues were being developed specifically for turf grasses.  Advances in breeding science lead to improved "turf-type" tall fescues retaining good color during winter months providing a year-round green lawn. These new turf-type tall fescues had finer leaf texture, greener in color, superior disease resistance and denser habit than the old pasture type Kentucky tall fescue.

130 years ago Kentucky tall fescue was state of the art, as was the Bell Telephone. Today we have over 80 years of genetic research and technology to advance the tall fescues into a whole new next generation. Improved turf-type tall fescues of today are the Smart Phones of grass seed, state of the art and continuing to upgrade. Todays improved turf-type fescues are so much more advanced for performance, why not use state of the art grass seed in your lawn?

Get a return on your investment. Uncle taught us, “You always get what you pay for.” The lower cost and the ready supply of Kentucky tall fescue can coax unaware homeowners to use it in their lawns. Expect a higher price per pound for turf-type tall fescues over Kentucky tall fescue, and you can also expect a return on your investment far greater than the difference of a few pennies. Improved turf-type fescues will be slower growing that mean less mowing. The dense growth habit means fewer weeds. Darker color means less fertilizer to keep that deep green. Improved disease resistance mean less fungicides. Drought tolerance means a lower water bill. Less mowing, less fertilizer, less weeds, less fungicides, less water; that's a pretty good return.

Grass Pad is all about grass. The Mid-West’s largest distributor of turf-type fescues, bluegrass and perennial sports turf rye is right in your own back yard. If you need to buy an electric drill, don't go to the Grass Pad, but if you need high performance grass seed then come on down to the Grass Pad. Taking pride in their grass seed and proud in their service, the knowledgeable staff at every Grass Pad can help you with all your lawn questions. Every Grass Pad seed variety is University tested for performance and laboratory tested for purity. If you need one pound or 10,000 lbs come to the Grass Pad. Discover the newest and best performing grass seed available for the mid-west. If you have a lawn service maintaining your yard, tell them to use only Grass Pad seed and don’t be afraid to ask to see the seed tag from the bag and NEVER let them use Kentucky tall fescue in your lawn.

Buyers Beware 
Grassy weeds will be hiding in Kentucky tall fescue. Much of the Kentucky tall fescue today is grown in Kansas, Missouri, and Texas. These are all areas where perennial orchard grass is widespread. Orchardgrass is even more coarse bladed and faster growing than Kentucky tall fescue. Unfortunately, orchard grass is not considered a “weed” and can be listed under “other seed” on the seed inspection tag required by law on all lawn seed bags. Even the smallest of percentage of “weeds” or “other seed” can turn your lawn into a weedy pasture. Always read the seed analysis tag. If you don’t know how to read the tag, ask a salesperson and if they don’t know how to read it, you’re not at the Grass Pad, so leave quickly!